The wire colors on the diagram are the same as what is in your vehicle per the original manual. Diagram is laminated in plastic for years of use.
B body 4 speed reverse light wire
All text is crystal clear and easy to read, and all colors are easy to distinguish. All rights reserved. Full Color Wiring Diagrams. Dodge Color Wiring Diagrams.
Ford Color Wiring Diagrams. Plymouth Color Wiring Diagrams. Pontiac Color Wiring Diagrams. If you are tired of those hard to read almost impossible to decipher black and white wiring diagrams copied out of 30 to 40 year old shop and repair manuals, this diagram is the solution!
We are always adding other years, makes and models to our inventory, and currently carry close to a thousand different diagrams. Being car enthusiasts ourselves, we understand how our product is used, and how important clarity and accuracy are. All information and color coding is from the original shop and service manuals. For example: if your car has a green wire, the circuit will be represented by a green line. Tracers are also shown if applicable. The diagrams show all of the basic components and connectors in the car per the original specs.
Road Runner: 1968 - 1970: Wiring
We are constantly adding cars to our database. If it is not listed, we can probably create it for you, in most cases within a few weeks. Thanks for checking out our listings. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to shoot us a quick email!All without any success.
It was a little annoying but not a deal-breaker.
If the brittle plastic here fails, so do your brake lights. Above: Thankfully, our replacement switch from Year One also come with a new terminal coupler, as mine was in sorry shape see above. Speed Coatings, LLC. Once coated, they were baked in a massive oven to finish the process. Admittedly, the broken turn signal switch segued into a very good opportunity to replace the column itself with a gorgeous tilting unit from Flaming Riveras we documented late last year.
But the factory column was still a solid piece and worthy of being rebuilt. In addition to the nearyear-old plastic switch failing, several bits of brittle plastic needed replacing, including the tabs on the terminal connector and our rag joint.
In all, the column itself was due for a restoration, and with the internet bereft of any worthwhile instructions on the matter, we felt it necessary to step up to the task. With the column removed, disassembly can begin. In completely disassembling our column, we discovered the sorry shape of our lower shaft bearing, and ordered one as well. Above left: With everything back from the powder coater, and giving our shaft and outer tube a quick polish, we were ready for re-assembly.
Above center: The outer shaft receives the coil spring at the taper and is inserted into the column first. Above right: A shoulder in the column keeps the outer tube from escaping out the top.
Top left and center: Year One came through with a replacement column bearing, as ours was both brittle and weirdly burned. Top right: In typical Mopar fashion, our steering shaft was both discolored with surface rust and inked with inspection markings.
Bottom left: The steering shaft slides into the bearing without trouble. Bottom center and right: The bearing can only go into the column one-way thanks to a key way. A pair of self-tapping screws secures it in place. Above: The collar slides on loosely and indexes counter-clockwise into a specific key way cut into the column.
With our parts ordered, we brought our once-painted and now dingy and discolored components column, collar and hub to Daniel Frey at Mr. Speed Coatings, LLC for powder coating. Factory colors were typically dull with little to no shine, and we opted to go a different route, but powder coating is baked on and is very difficult to chip or scratch, so opting for durability over factory-correctness was our motivation here. Each item was media blasted, baked clean and promptly coated.
Then they were baked in Mr. Once home, we buffed our shaft and housing tube to knock off any surface rust and patina. With all of our components either cleaned, recoated or replaced, we were ready for reassembly. The outer housing tube receives the 2-inch coil spring around its taper and slides into the column first. Above: The hub slides on next over the shaft. Pull the shaft out as far as possible to reach the splined portion where the top bearing is pressed on.
Top left and center: The top bearing is sandwiched on the shaft between two C-clips, and then covered by a rubber shroud. Top right: With the bottom clip on, we greased the shaft and lightly pressed the bearing into place until the top relief is exposed.
Bottom center: The bearing is covered with the rubber shroud. Follow that with our new column bearing, which the spring presses against. The shaft is then inserted from the bottom, with the knurled, threaded end poking through the top. Both the shaft and tube housing are segmented with plastic inserts designed to give way if ever in an accident and needed to collapse.
It, combined with the webbed segment of the column itself is some of the first safety features designed to keep people from being lanced by the steering column, a standard feature by The collar slides over the top of the column and indexes clockwise, there being a large keyway in the top of the column.Most orders are shipped within 24 to 48 hours of receipt.
Product MB Replacement under-dash harness for B-body models. Our harnesses feature correct color wires, factory style connectors and is wrapped in non-adhesive vinyl wrap tape. Under-dash harnesses connect to various switches and View Product Details.
Product MN Clean up the wiring in your engine compartment with this replacement wiring strap and fastener set. Includes all of the original type fasteners and clips required to get your wiring secured and properly adhered to the Reproduction under-dash harness for B-body models.
Rear body light harness for Plymouth convertible models. The rear light harness powers all the accessories on the rear end of the vehicle and it connects to the under-dash harness, or in some cases to an intermediate Modified engine harness for Dodge and Plymouth models with electronic ignition.
Note: No furthe r Replacement AC and heater harness for B-body models with V8. Now is the time to replace those old, hard, spliced and discolored harness with fresh new reproduction harness. Note: Discount exempt. Replacement complete engine wiring harness which are ready to install and feature correct colored wires and correct style connectors, making installation as easy as possible.
Replacement harnesses include connections for the Product This switch is manufactured to exact factory specifications and comes with metal connectors attached to Product TT These dual-purpose sleeves enhance performance, reduce misfires, extend plug wire life and will not react with petroleum products.
The double-wall construction keeps the wire and boot cooler in a high-temperature engine Product AL Thanks to detailed instructions, color-coded and labeled wire, and plug-n-play connectors, Pro Series is easy to install and simple to expand The ultra small fuse block can be mounted in any Product AM Designed to help correct bouncy, or spiking tachometer operation caused by points or noisy ignitions. Product A The All-in-One harness solution for the Tremec T Magnum transmission comes equipped with all the connections pre-wired into one harness for a simple installation and ease of use.Overview Our 14 Circuit Second Generation Wire Harness is designed as a cut-to-fit universal complete restoration wire harness.
These kits will support your entire electrical system from headlights to tail lights. The 14 Circuit wire harness is our most popular kit. Every restoration wiring kit comes with an easy-to-use instruction book that walks you through every step of the installation.
Our wiring kits are engineered for both the first time installer and the experienced auto electrician. All of our restoration wiring harnesses are manufactured in the USA. They all need power and grounding. Every wiring kit comes with a set of installation accessories including terminals, plugs, connectors, pigtails, splices, and more!
We only use the highest quality GXL coated stranded wire in all of our restoration wire harnesses. GXL wire is resistant to moisture, grease, oil, gasoline, most acids, and solvents. Stranded wire enables more flexibility in routing of the wire and offers more durability for applications where vibration and occasional movement of the wire could cause breakage of a stiffer solid wire or rigid stranded conductors.
To assist with the install, we also print the number and destination of every wire included in the kit every 4 inches the entire length of the wire. The number assigned to the circuit as well as the label are indicated in the instruction book as well, so you'll never lose track of what wire goes where! All of our kits were designed from the ground up with the goal of providing a quality American Made product that was affordable to our customers.
Our kits are engineered and built as a universal cut-to-fit harness that will fit in virtually every make and model restoration while ensuring a perfect fit for your vehicle every time. All of our harnesses come with a variety of features that all help make it the best kit on the market for automotive restoration.
Below is a list of some of the unique features built into the design of our harnesses. Our wiring kits have also been proudly manufactured in the USA since our beginning in Coil Kill Switch - A coil kill switch is included with all of our standard wiring kits. When turned off, this switch keeps power from flowing to the coil of your car to keep it from starting. Universal Fit - Our kits are designed to be a universal fit.
The truth is that almost all components hook-up the same regardless of make. Headlights work the same as they do in Ford vehicles as the do in GM builds. Our kits have been put in just about every make and model you can think of!
Instruction Book Included - An instruction book is included with every wire harness that walks through every single wire of the install. Give us a call to talk to one of our expert techs. Thicker Gauge Wire - We pride ourselves by producing a quality product, and that starts with using quality materials. We use more copper in our kits than many of our competitors. This helps ensure the safety of our product and longevity for years to come.
Plenty of Wire Included - Our wiring harnesses come with plenty of wiring for your build. The kits are designed as a cut-to-fit harness to ensure a perfect fit every time. The kit also comes with instructions on how to hook it up. It's simple to keep that engine cool! Speaker Wire - Included We include speaker wire with all of our standard wire harnesses. The plastic jacket around the speaker wire helps to deliver high-quality undistorted signals to and from all of your audio equipment.
Stainless Steel Fuse Cover - All of our standard wiring harnesses come with a brushed stainless steel cover to protect the fuses. Labels indicating what each fuse is for are also located on the underside of the cover.Many times at car shows one can tell the unit was installed later because of the way it was wired in the engine bay.
It is not wired to a correct lead coming out of the firewall grommet but usually from a hole made in one of the rubber seals in the firewall using incorrectly colored wire. Phone I have seen the reproduction harness and they look very close to the original harness. Here's how to install the correct harness. One needs to carefully pull a light socket out of this block-off plate.
This socket then is pushed into the back of the tach when it is installed. A very small screw driver is needed to remove the small adjusting knob at the end of the small rod used to set the clock. This lead is connected to the coil. If one is ordering a new engine wire harness be sure to say you want one with the tach lead.
Then its just a matter of pushing the two connectors together in the engine bay. If you don't replace the engine harness because it's in good shape, one will need to install a wire from the coil to the female connector coming out of the firewall. There will be two connectors still under the dash area which are pushed into plate on the back of the tach. The long wire with the spade is pushed onto one of the places on the backside of the fuse panel located in the glove box.
See photos. From the inside of the car the lead gray wire is pushed out through the firewall hole until the grommet is in place.Electrical and Ignition. Aug 12, 1. Messages: 7 Likes Received:. I replaced the ballast and change the module to a 5 pin read somewhere that if you have 4 lead ballast you had to use a 5 pin module.
Road Runner: 1968 - 1970: Wiring
It worked better but now after hot it starts, but if I let it sit for a minute it won't. Sometime when I jiggle the key while starting it will start and was going to replace the ignition switch next. But this problem has to be heat related - anyone run into this before? Driving me crazy Aug 12, 2. Messages: 5, Likes Received:. I know this flies in the face of the "parts cannon" approach to repairs that most guys will give you, but here goes. Get out your digital multi meter and when this happens, with the key "on" check for voltage at the plus side of the coil primary.
If no voltage, start checking back to the ballast resistor and back to the ignition switch from there. If you have voltage, key off, unplug the distributor and check resistance ohms between the two terminals on the distributor side. You should have ohms resistance between those two connections. If you have more, the pickup is shot. You can check the coil by disconnecting the wires and checking resistance across the primary.
You should have about. Check resistance from either primary terminal to the center and you should have 10, ohms resistance or so. Those are really generic readings My money is on the distributor pick up or the coil That is assuming that this is an electrical problem and you checked and there was no spark. Stop listening to any advice they give you.
Basketcase likes this. Aug 12, 3. Messages: 21, Likes Received:. I suggest you start replacing one part at a time until it goes away Good advise Big.
Aug 12, 4. Aug 12, 5. Messages: 14, Likes Received:. Aug 12, 6. Thanks John. Got out my meter and it 'a shot. Opened distributor and check out pickup - was going to take it out and get a new one but it wouldn't come out need to study that one. I did notice that the wire coming from the distributor was pinched between the distributor and hot water hose. Pulled the wire to look at it - looked ok - reinstalled it and now it won't start at all.
Think I'm getting closer to the problem. Will let you know what happens. Aug 15, 7.Basically, the Voltage Regulator completes the charging circuit and allows the alternator to charge the system.How the Ballast Resistor Works
When a certain voltage is obtained, the regulator "opens" or turns off the circuit until the electrical system's voltage drops, then it completes the circuit again. The old voltage regulators are repairable and rebuild able.
The Dodge Shop manual available from a number of vendors details how to do this. If you think your regulator is failing, open it up and clean the "points" with some emory paper sometimes these points get corroded. The basic circuit, shown in Diagram 2, is completely different. The two "FLD" terminals would appear as though they were at approximately the 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock positions. The list of reason include. Diagram 3 below describes how to install a 70 and later voltage regulator on a pre Mopar.
Diagram 3 Basically, a wire is added to the second field brush on the alternator. On the original alternator, this brush is grounded to the case of the alternator, so you'll need to change the alternator to a or newer style. The second field wire is connected to the outside plug on the newer voltage regulator two plugs, one is in the middle, one is on the outside.
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner Parts - Wiring & Connectors
The original field wire that ran to the "FLD" plug on the original voltage regulator green wire needs to be connected with the wire that ran to the "IGN" side of the original voltage regulator.
This wire both the old FLD and the old IGN need to be connected to the center plug on the newer voltage regulator as well.
One more important step is required, the new voltage regulator must have a good case ground - to its mounting surface. If there isn't a good ground to the new voltage regulator case, the charging system will not work. If a wiring modification of this level is not something you wish to tackle, reproduction engine wire harnesses for pre Mopars can be purchased that incorporate the newer voltage regulator and electronic ignition wiring and connectors.
This green wire is connected at the voltage regulator at the "FLD" connection with a screw. The other connection on the voltage regulator is a blue wire with a female plug end. This is the "IGN" Ignition side. Diagram 1.